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Rob: I'm thinking that your thermostats are not likely the problem. If the geo units and the thermostats are keeping the house at 21 (not higher, not more than a degree or two lower), then they're likely working OK. Your energy use may be just fine, or may really be too high - there's really a couple of things we need to know. Your have 9 tons worth of heat pumps - if your house really requires that much heat, I'd guess a HE Nat Gas Furnace would have a monthly bill well above $250. Do you have a 'heat loss' calculation for the house from your geo installer showing the peak number of BTUs required at a particular outside temperature design point? The experts here can help if you give them the right info - there's some really knowledgeable people here.
I have a Honeywell Chronotherm III thermostat [ID No. Printed on back: T8602B1006, with 9238 on the next line]. I has been used to operate a Coleman Gas furnace in a manufactured home. Already in use read more. Get Honeywell CHRONOTHERM T8602C Thermostat User Manual. Get all Honeywell manuals! Sign up to create an account Facebook. • set current day and time,• program times and setpoints for heating and cooling,• temporarily override program temperatures,• display present setting,See Fig. 9 for location of the keys. Download chew wga 09 the windows 7 patch crackexe 10.
(Not me - I'm just a homeowner who's been lurking around this site and learning more about this subject than I would have ever imagined) The water in and out temps are a good start, but don't quite tell us enough. A 3 degree difference between water-in and water-out temp might be ok for a unit running in first stage, but might seem on the low side for a unit running in second stage assuming that water flow stays constant Climatemaster's manuals suggest that in 2nd stage, 'normal' for your 6 ton unit is about 4 to 10 degree temp drop, depending on how many gpm are flowing through the unit. For your 3 ton unit when running in 2nd staqe, 'normal' is a 4.5 to 10.9 degree temp drop. That's a pretty big spread. What we really want to know here are these separate readings for each of your two units - water in, water out and air in, air out when running in stage 1 - water in, water out and air in, air out when running in stage 2 That's 16 temperature readings in total - just kick up or down the t'stat to get the unit into the right stage.
You should be able to tell what stage the unit is in from the display on the t'stat, or the Y1 and Y2 LEDs inside the unit on the ECM board. Temps here should be measured right where the air enters and leaves the unit, and where the water enters and leaves the unit.
An inexpensive digital meat thermometer will do nicely to gather these temps, if you want to do this yourself instead of bothering your installer. You may have P/T test ports installed on the water lines which are meant for measuring these temps. If not, tape the thermometer to the outside of the pipe where it enters or leaves the unit to get a fairly accurate reading. From those temp readings, and your climatemaster manual (or the formula HE (Btuh) = TD x GPM x 500), we can figure out if the 'HE' (Heat of Extraction) is within spec for each of your units.
It would also be good to know if you have any daytime or nighttime setbacks programmed into the thermostat, and to confirm whether all the breakers for the backup electric heat strips are off. If you've got a large nighttime setback and your heat strips are being used to bring the temperature back up each morning, that'll cost some money. Others here with more knowledge than me can chime in on what I've missed (or overcomplicated). Geonorth New Member Posts:22 17 Feb 2010 10:05 PM. I can understand, I was pretty shocked with my electric bill. Good news is that it drops off a lot in the summer. Here are my actual costs from 2009.
Rob: I'm thinking that your thermostats are not likely the problem. If the geo units and the thermostats are keeping the house at 21 (not higher, not more than a degree or two lower), then they're likely working OK. Your energy use may be just fine, or may really be too high - there's really a couple of things we need to know. Your have 9 tons worth of heat pumps - if your house really requires that much heat, I'd guess a HE Nat Gas Furnace would have a monthly bill well above $250. Do you have a 'heat loss' calculation for the house from your geo installer showing the peak number of BTUs required at a particular outside temperature design point? The experts here can help if you give them the right info - there's some really knowledgeable people here.
I have a Honeywell Chronotherm III thermostat [ID No. Printed on back: T8602B1006, with 9238 on the next line]. I has been used to operate a Coleman Gas furnace in a manufactured home. Already in use read more. Get Honeywell CHRONOTHERM T8602C Thermostat User Manual. Get all Honeywell manuals! Sign up to create an account Facebook. • set current day and time,• program times and setpoints for heating and cooling,• temporarily override program temperatures,• display present setting,See Fig. 9 for location of the keys. Download chew wga 09 the windows 7 patch crackexe 10.
(Not me - I'm just a homeowner who's been lurking around this site and learning more about this subject than I would have ever imagined) The water in and out temps are a good start, but don't quite tell us enough. A 3 degree difference between water-in and water-out temp might be ok for a unit running in first stage, but might seem on the low side for a unit running in second stage assuming that water flow stays constant Climatemaster's manuals suggest that in 2nd stage, 'normal' for your 6 ton unit is about 4 to 10 degree temp drop, depending on how many gpm are flowing through the unit. For your 3 ton unit when running in 2nd staqe, 'normal' is a 4.5 to 10.9 degree temp drop. That's a pretty big spread. What we really want to know here are these separate readings for each of your two units - water in, water out and air in, air out when running in stage 1 - water in, water out and air in, air out when running in stage 2 That's 16 temperature readings in total - just kick up or down the t'stat to get the unit into the right stage.
You should be able to tell what stage the unit is in from the display on the t'stat, or the Y1 and Y2 LEDs inside the unit on the ECM board. Temps here should be measured right where the air enters and leaves the unit, and where the water enters and leaves the unit.
An inexpensive digital meat thermometer will do nicely to gather these temps, if you want to do this yourself instead of bothering your installer. You may have P/T test ports installed on the water lines which are meant for measuring these temps. If not, tape the thermometer to the outside of the pipe where it enters or leaves the unit to get a fairly accurate reading. From those temp readings, and your climatemaster manual (or the formula HE (Btuh) = TD x GPM x 500), we can figure out if the 'HE' (Heat of Extraction) is within spec for each of your units.
It would also be good to know if you have any daytime or nighttime setbacks programmed into the thermostat, and to confirm whether all the breakers for the backup electric heat strips are off. If you've got a large nighttime setback and your heat strips are being used to bring the temperature back up each morning, that'll cost some money. Others here with more knowledge than me can chime in on what I've missed (or overcomplicated). Geonorth New Member Posts:22 17 Feb 2010 10:05 PM. I can understand, I was pretty shocked with my electric bill. Good news is that it drops off a lot in the summer. Here are my actual costs from 2009.
..." style="letter-spacing:inherit;">Honeywell Dial Set Chronotherm Manual Meat(04.12.2018)Rob: I'm thinking that your thermostats are not likely the problem. If the geo units and the thermostats are keeping the house at 21 (not higher, not more than a degree or two lower), then they're likely working OK. Your energy use may be just fine, or may really be too high - there's really a couple of things we need to know. Your have 9 tons worth of heat pumps - if your house really requires that much heat, I'd guess a HE Nat Gas Furnace would have a monthly bill well above $250. Do you have a 'heat loss' calculation for the house from your geo installer showing the peak number of BTUs required at a particular outside temperature design point? The experts here can help if you give them the right info - there's some really knowledgeable people here.
I have a Honeywell Chronotherm III thermostat [ID No. Printed on back: T8602B1006, with 9238 on the next line]. I has been used to operate a Coleman Gas furnace in a manufactured home. Already in use read more. Get Honeywell CHRONOTHERM T8602C Thermostat User Manual. Get all Honeywell manuals! Sign up to create an account Facebook. • set current day and time,• program times and setpoints for heating and cooling,• temporarily override program temperatures,• display present setting,See Fig. 9 for location of the keys. Download chew wga 09 the windows 7 patch crackexe 10.
(Not me - I'm just a homeowner who's been lurking around this site and learning more about this subject than I would have ever imagined) The water in and out temps are a good start, but don't quite tell us enough. A 3 degree difference between water-in and water-out temp might be ok for a unit running in first stage, but might seem on the low side for a unit running in second stage assuming that water flow stays constant Climatemaster's manuals suggest that in 2nd stage, 'normal' for your 6 ton unit is about 4 to 10 degree temp drop, depending on how many gpm are flowing through the unit. For your 3 ton unit when running in 2nd staqe, 'normal' is a 4.5 to 10.9 degree temp drop. That's a pretty big spread. What we really want to know here are these separate readings for each of your two units - water in, water out and air in, air out when running in stage 1 - water in, water out and air in, air out when running in stage 2 That's 16 temperature readings in total - just kick up or down the t'stat to get the unit into the right stage.
You should be able to tell what stage the unit is in from the display on the t'stat, or the Y1 and Y2 LEDs inside the unit on the ECM board. Temps here should be measured right where the air enters and leaves the unit, and where the water enters and leaves the unit.
An inexpensive digital meat thermometer will do nicely to gather these temps, if you want to do this yourself instead of bothering your installer. You may have P/T test ports installed on the water lines which are meant for measuring these temps. If not, tape the thermometer to the outside of the pipe where it enters or leaves the unit to get a fairly accurate reading. From those temp readings, and your climatemaster manual (or the formula HE (Btuh) = TD x GPM x 500), we can figure out if the 'HE' (Heat of Extraction) is within spec for each of your units.
It would also be good to know if you have any daytime or nighttime setbacks programmed into the thermostat, and to confirm whether all the breakers for the backup electric heat strips are off. If you've got a large nighttime setback and your heat strips are being used to bring the temperature back up each morning, that'll cost some money. Others here with more knowledge than me can chime in on what I've missed (or overcomplicated). Geonorth New Member Posts:22 17 Feb 2010 10:05 PM. I can understand, I was pretty shocked with my electric bill. Good news is that it drops off a lot in the summer. Here are my actual costs from 2009.
...">Honeywell Dial Set Chronotherm Manual Meat(04.12.2018)